Wanli, Taiwan – Sunday, May 8th, 2011
About an hour bus ride from Taipei extending from a tiny peninsula on the northern coast of Taiwan is a geological anomaly. An alien landscape of bizarre rocks stretches out into the sea, shaped by the waters and winds from the ocean. While Leofoo Village is Taiwan’s most direct attempt at creating its own Disneyland, for many Taiwanese it’s Yehliu Geopark that feels like their proper Disney equivalent… a compact fantasyland teeming with tourists looking to get the perfect photo of their kids with the park’s most famous mascots, in this case led by a queen instead of a cast of princesses. The first time I saw pictures of Yehliu Geopark must have been like a child seeing photos of Disneyland the first time: “How could this place be real?” Also: “I have to go there for myself!”
Sunday morning Mariel and I would rise early to catch the bus to Wanli, where Yehliu Geopark is only a short walk along the coast. The weather could have hardly been better; a literal breath of fresh air from the skies of China and Hong Kong.
This small shrine along the pathway had some incredibly crafted details and vivid colors, especially for being located next to the sea.
This way to the geological landscape area.
And here it is: some of the world’s most unique hoodoo formations created by thousands of years of erosion. The sheer variety of rock formations within a fairly small area is quite astonishing.
Fossils are also in abundance among the formations.
By far the most famous formation in Yehliu Geopark is the Queen’s Head, a Nefertiti-like hoodoo rock with an impossibly slender “neck.” Because natural erosion is expected to eventually cause the rock to collapse in the near future, they’ve made a fiberglass to stand in the park as well. I forget if these photographs were of the real one or the replica.
I might have gotten a better angle photo of the Queen’s Head’s narrow neck, but the crowd to see it was a bit overbearing.
Indeed if there’s one major challenge at Yehliu it’s that the crowds pose a serious conservation issue for the long term health of the fragile geology. While the Queen’s Head is well protected and there’s a few designated walking paths around the entry area where many of the most significant formations are located, much of the rest of the site allows visitors to free roam over the open rock surface. Today the major source of erosion likely comes from the rubber soles of shoes than from the winds or rains of the Pacific. Fortunately a year after our visit, in 2012, a conservation group was founded to look after the long term health of Yehliu, and I’d hope the park has become better at controlling crowds. While it’s good that people can experience the natural world like this, when they’re given free roam over the place the result begins to resemble a Saturday at Disneyland more than anything else.
Following the path towards the north end of the peninsula got us away from some of the more congested crowd areas, and still revealed some remarkable geology.
Several caves punctuate the shoreline, beckoning us to explore. To draw another Disney comparison, it’s like Tom Sawyer Island, only way better.
Farther north, the landscape begins to turn very alien. This area was the highlight of Yehliu for me and Mariel.
I’d be curious to know how many sci-fi or fantasy movies have used this as a shooting location.
This bulbous dimpled mushroom formation sticking out all by itself was my personal favorite of Yehliu.
Almost equally as awesome: this hollow raised mound, almost a perfect cylinder, like some sort of giant natural ceramic sake glass.
Doughnut.
I’d be curious to know what geologic process leads to all these embedded marble-like structures.
Peering out across two different kinds of horizons.
Normal-looking dog in a weird sci-fi setting? Just like The Thing? Better keep moving.
Also, watch out for crevasses.
Heading towards the northern tip of the peninsula. No pathways, just open rock landscape.
At the end of the peninsula, there’s soon nowhere else to go but up.
Mariel decided to look back. It’s a long way down.
Finally reached the top. Magnificent view at what is close to the most northerly point in Taiwan.
The route back down towards the front of the peninsula lacked the impressive geologic features, but did make up for it with some impressive views in the perfect weather. Plus a paved downhill pathway made it go much quicker than the route out.
I liked how these rocks looked like the back of an enormous crocodile submerged in the water.
Speaking of reptilians, a little skink.
Arriving back at shore level to rejoin the masses. I’m curious, they’ve all paid for a ticket for the day, why so few of them explore the rest of the Geopark?
Time to head back to Taipei.
While the experience of Yehliu Geopark wasn’t nearly as transcendent as my visit to Jiuzhaigou National Park the previous month, it was in many ways far more unusual. It’s a fairly small area, easily walkable in an afternoon, close to urban development, yet you suddenly feel transported to another world. It’s both completely unlike anything I’ve ever done before, but the scale and rhythms of the day felt in many ways similar to a theme park visit. The park itself is well preserved, although the commercialism intrudes just beyond the periphery. Crowds can be a challenge for both the conservation of the site and for the aesthetic enjoyment of its landscapes, but we’re part of those crowds so I’m in no position to complain. Hell, this may have been my favorite thing in Taiwan.
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